Top 10 most iconic military watches of all time: Rolex, Zenith, Seiko Captain Willard, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Omega, IWX Mark X, Hamilton, Longines, Panerai Radiomir, Lange & Söhne
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Top 10 iconic military watches of all time
1. Rolex MilSub (Submariner Ref. 5513/5517)
- Country: Great Britain (Royal Navy, 1970s)
- Special feature: Standard Submariner with military modifications – permanently soldered spring bars, “Sword Hands”, engraved “T” marking for tritium.
- Status: Extremely rare; considered the benchmark for military diving watches.
2. Omega “Dirty Dozen” (WWW)
- Country: Great Britain (WW II)
- Special feature: One of twelve brands that supplied precision hand-wound watches (Wrist. Watch. Waterproof) to the British War Office in 1944.
- Design features: Black matte dials, Arabic numerals, small seconds, broad arrow.
- Iconic because: A total of 12 models (including Omega, IWC, Longines, Record) – the first systematically specified service watches.
3. Panerai Radiomir (Ref. 3646)
- Country: Italy / for the Navy (1940s)
- Special feature: Built by Rolex for Panerai; hand-painted Radiomir luminous dial, 47 mm case.
- Iconic because: First true military diver's watch – design almost unchanged to this day.
4. IWC Mark XI
- Country: Great Britain (RAF)
- Year of construction: 1948 onwards.
- Special feature: Chronometer-tested, anti-magnetic movement (Cal. 89), soft iron inner case.
- Iconic because: the original father of the modern pilot's watch – the design lives on in the IWC Mark XX.
5. Longines HS10 / Weems / Lindbergh
- Country: Great Britain (Marine Services) & USA
- Year of construction: 1930s–45
- Special feature: Rotatable seconds or time reference scales, designed for navigation and radio alignment.
- Iconic because: the basis of many navigation and observation watches.
6. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (Milspec)
- Country: France / NATO naval forces (1950s)
- Special feature: Designed by combat divers (including Lieutenant Mallet), waterproof to > 90 meters, Luminova signal indicator.
- Iconic because: First professional diver's watch in the modern sense (1953 – before the Submariner).
7. Seiko Diver Ref. 6105 “Captain Willard”
- Country: Japan / Vietnam War (1960s – 70s)
- Special features: extremely robust, 150 m water resistance, characteristic crown protection.
- Iconic because: standard watch for many US soldiers in Vietnam, immortalized in pop culture in Apocalypse Now .
8. Hamilton GG‑W‑113 / MIL‑W‑46374
- Country: USA (Vietnam & Cold War)
- Special feature: Robust, hand-wound field watches according to US military specs, plastic or steel case.
- Iconic because: It defines the classic field watch design – versatile, absolutely functional.
9. A. Lange & Söhne Observation Watch (B-Uhr)
- Country: Germany (Air Force WWII)
- Type: Navigation and pilot's watch (55 mm)
- Special features: central seconds hand, ratchet winding mechanism, conical hands, luminous numerals, reference for all “Big Pilot” designs.
- Iconic because: precision & readability – still reproduced today by Laco, Stowa, etc.
10th Marathon GSAR (“General Purpose Search and Rescue”)
- Country: Canada / USA (modern, from the 1980s to the present)
- Special feature: Official NATO specification, tritium tubes, extremely durable.
- Iconic because: One of the last true “issued” military watches – wearable and still in active service today.
🧩 Bonus – Honorable Mentions
- CWC G10 & Royal Navy Diver (UK, 1970 – present)
- Tudor MilSub (US Navy)
- Bulova MIL‑W‑3818A & Accutron Astronaut (US Air Force era)
- Breguet Type XX (Armée de l'Air)
🧭 In summary
| role | Typical examples |
|---|---|
| diving watches | Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex MilSub, Panerai Radiomir |
| pilot watches | IWC Mark XI, B-Uhr Glashütte, Breguet Type XX |
| Field clocks / Infantry | Hamilton MIL‑W‑46374, Omega Dirty Dozen |
| Modern service watches | Marathon GSAR, CWC Diver |