The jeweler to kings and the king of jewelers, Cartier has been the industry leader in design-oriented wristwatches for almost 125 years. The Parisian brand has experienced a resurgence in the secondary market in recent years—especially vintage Cartier watches—but it has been waiting for its opportunity all along. Take a look at the evolution of Cartier's watch models through its formal experiments.
1904 – Santos de Cartier

It may not look like it, but technically, this is the world's first pilot's watch. The Santos was designed by Cartier in 1904 for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont. It's also the world's first men's watch designed for the wrist (flying an aircraft requires both hands). The model has evolved since 1904, with the biggest change being the introduction of the signature bracelet. The modern version, with its 100 m water resistance and screw-down crown, is an excellent everyday watch.
1917 – Cartier Tank

When you think of Cartier, this is probably the watch that springs to mind. The Cartier Tank was modeled after the treads of the Renault F-17 tank, although the watch is known more for its elegance than its menace. The Tank was worn by celebrities such as Jackie Kennedy, Muhammad Ali, and Andy Warhol (who famously never set the time on his watch). The model even spawned its own watch category, and as a result, there are "Tanks" from Omega, Longines, Seiko, and other brands.
1967 – Cartier Crash

Rumor has it that the Cartier Crash was inspired by a Cartier watch that had been bent and deformed in a car accident. In reality, the watch's design was inspired by the psychedelic atmosphere of London in the 1960s. But a good myth is not to be sniffed at. In recent years, the Crash has become Cartier's most coveted model. One example even sold for $1.6 million in 2022.
1972 – Cartier Pebble

The Pebble is one of Cartier's niche icons—barely recognizable to the general public, but highly revered among enthusiasts. The watch features a rounded, pebble-like case with a unique diamond-shaped dial. The watch gained renewed popularity on the wrist of musician Tyler, the Creator, as well as through its recent 50th anniversary reissue.
1977 – Cartier Tank Must

The Must de Cartier collection was conceived as an affordable way to bring Cartier's elegance to the masses. The product line includes jewelry and fragrances, but we'll focus on the watches here. Critics cite the watches' gold-plated cases and quartz movements as signs of inferior quality. However, the new steel versions with colorful dials have been well received by enthusiasts.
1985 – Pasha de Cartier

The Pasha de Cartier is one of the brand's few round watches. The model range includes diving watches, chronographs, and even watches with a protective grille over the crystal, similar to the riflemen's watches from World War I. The Pasha is another example of Cartier combining industrial elements with the spirit of a jeweler.
1996 – Cartier Tank Française

The Tank Française is one of Cartier's most popular watches. The watch features signature Cartier elements combined with a bracelet that closely matches the case construction. Since its launch in 1996, the Tank Française has been expanded to include various sizes, materials, and even some chronograph versions.
2001 – Cartier Roadster

The Roadster boasts one of Cartier's most controversial designs. As the name suggests, the watch is heavily inspired by automotive design, particularly the 1950s Porsche 356. The dial is modeled after a speedometer, the case is designed to resemble the smooth lines of the chassis, and the crown design is reminiscent of a classic hubcap. Although the Roadster garnered some dedicated fans, production was discontinued after about a decade.
2007 – Ballon Bleu de Cartier

The name Ballon Bleu translates as "blue balloon." It's one of Cartier's few round watches. However, it's not perfectly round, as the crown disrupts the watch's symmetry in a charming way. The Ballon Bleu is available today in a variety of sizes and case materials. And if you're a gemstone lover, you should consider this version, as it often features factory-set diamonds.
2016 – Drive de Cartier

Clear and simple are perhaps the best words to describe the Drive de Cartier . Like the Roadster, this watch was inspired by the automotive world and was produced for only a few years before its production was discontinued. The watch is available in several sizes and also in more complicated versions with date, moon phase, and GMT functions.